

I grew up in South Dakota. Real food came from someone you knew. Slow living wasn't a trend — it was just Tuesday.
These days I live tucked into the Idaho mountains, off-grid by design. I have a flock of birds I hatched from eggs I collected from birds I raised. I have an indoor grow room and a greenhouse. I source feed with no soy, no corn, no seed oils. My birds free-range on actual Idaho ground every single day.
I didn't move here for the aesthetic. I moved here because the further I got from the supply chain, the better I felt about what I was putting in my body.

I grow what I eat because I don't trust what I can't trace.
I hatch my own flock because I want to know every part of the chain — what the parent birds ate, what the ground looked like, what went into the egg that went into my breakfast.
I source feed I can read the label on and actually understand. I grow mealworms for my birds because I'd rather know the protein source than trust a bag that says "natural ingredients."
This isn't a hobby. It's the most deliberate thing I do.

I'm not interested in chasing followers.
I'm interested in building a community of people who are asking the same questions I'm asking and doing something about it.
People who are done outsourcing their food supply to a system they don't fully trust.
People who are curious enough to look into it and stubborn enough to do something about it.
If that's you — you found the right page.
Because I'm not here to sell you a fantasy — I'm living the real thing.
I didn't grow up doing this. I learned the hard way: one frozen waterer, failed hatch, and rogue rooster at a time.
I built my homestead from scratch. Off-grid. In the mountains. With no blueprint and a lot of trial and error.
Here's what I know now that I didn't know then:
The information is out there. But most of it is either dressed up past the point of being useful, or so overwhelming it makes you want to give up before you start.
I share everything — what worked, what failed, what I'd do differently. From mealworms to meat birds. Soil to coop automation. Incubation humidity to lockdown day 18.
I'm not a guru. I'm someone who got fed up with the system, decided to build a way out of it, and documented everything along the way so you don't have to figure it all out alone.
Growing your own food is the most radical act of self-preservation we have left. I take that seriously, and you should too.
So if you want someone who gets it — someone who's walked through the overwhelm and is still walking, still building, still learning — You're in the right place.


Because Googling every chicken question at midnight isn’t a strategy.
My "Hatch to Harvest" course is the guide I wish I had when I started. Googling your way through a hatch at midnight isn't a system. It's a prayer.
I built Hatch to Harvest because when I started, I couldn't find a single resource that covered the full process — from picking the right egg to harvest day — without either dumbing it down or leaving out the parts that matter.
This is the course I built for myself and made available because you deserve more than a patchwork of YouTube videos and Facebook group opinions.
Everything from brooder setup to harvest. Every step in order. Hard-earned from doing it myself, off-grid, without a team.
It's not for people who want to dabble. It's for people who are ready to raise their own meat, know exactly what they're eating, and stop depending on a supply chain they can't see.
If you've ever felt any of this — keep reading...
Overwhelmed by conflicting advice and not sure who to actually trust.
Frustrated by courses that cost a lot and assume you already know things.
Ready to raise your own food but not sure where the first step is.
Done trusting labels and wanting to know the full chain from seed, egg, or chick to what's on your plate.
Suspicious that the food system isn't as stable as everyone says — and wanting to build something that doesn't depend on it.
I've been all of those things.
I'll walk you through every part of this — chickens, food, systems, sourcing — with clear practical steps from someone who's done it the hard way and figured out what actually works.
This isn't about being perfect. It's about being less dependent. One bird, one harvest, one skill at a time.


There’s something downright magical about turning fresh produce into shelf-stable jars of deliciousness, but beneath the surface of this homesteading craft lies a fascinating science. If you’ve ever wondered how canning works or questioned its safety, you’re in the right place.
Let’s break down the science of canning so you can preserve with confidence and enjoy the fruits (and veggies) of your labor.
Canning isn’t just an art—it’s science in action. At its core, canning is about two things: killing harmful microorganisms and sealing food in a sterile environment to prevent contamination. Here’s how it happens:
Heat to Kill Microorganisms
When food is heated to a specific temperature, it destroys bacteria, yeast, molds, and enzymes that cause spoilage. The type of food determines the level of heat required:
High-acid foods (like fruits, jams, and pickles) need to reach boiling water temperatures (212°F) to destroy most spoilage organisms.
Low-acid foods (like meats, beans, and vegetables) require higher temperatures (240°F or more) achievable only with a pressure canner to eliminate dangerous bacteria like Clostridium botulinum.
Create an Airtight Seal
As the jars cool after processing, the air inside contracts, pulling the lids down and creating a vacuum seal. This seal keeps new bacteria, molds, and other nasties out while locking in freshness.
Canning has been safely practiced for centuries, but thanks to modern science, we now know exactly what makes it work—and what can go wrong.
The acidity level of food is a major player in the science of canning. Here’s why:
High-acid foods (pH below 4.6) create an environment where harmful bacteria, like Clostridium botulinum, can’t grow. That’s why water bath canning is sufficient for fruits, pickles, and jams.
Low-acid foods (pH above 4.6) need the higher heat of a pressure canner to destroy botulism spores and other pathogens.
Quick Tip: If you’re ever unsure about the acidity of your food, add a splash of lemon juice or vinegar—it’s a simple step to ensure safety.
Botulism might sound like a scary homesteading buzzword, but it’s entirely avoidable if you follow canning safety guidelines. Botulism spores can’t survive the high temperatures of pressure canning, so sticking to tested recipes and methods is key.
Here are a few golden rules:
Don’t wing it. Use recipes designed for safe food preservation, like those from the Ball Canning Guide or USDA guidelines.
Process for the correct time. Underprocessing jars leaves room for bacteria to thrive.
Never skip the pressure canner for low-acid foods. Even if your grandma swore by water bath canning green beans, modern science says otherwise.
Canning isn’t the only way to preserve food, but it’s certainly one of the most versatile and long-lasting. Here’s how it stacks up against other food preservation methods:
Freezing: While freezing is convenient, it relies on electricity and doesn’t eliminate microorganisms—just slows their growth. Plus, freezer burn is a real buzzkill.
Drying: Great for herbs and snacks, but not every food lends itself to dehydration.
Fermenting: A fun and healthy option (hello, sauerkraut!), but it’s more of a short-term method compared to canning.
Canning: A little upfront effort gives you shelf-stable jars of goodness that can last for years.
Canning lets you take control of your food supply, reduce waste, and enjoy homegrown flavors all year long.
Ready to dive into the world of canning? Here’s a step-by-step guide to ensure you’re doing it safely and confidently:
A canning pot or pressure canner
Glass jars and new lids (always use new lids to ensure a proper seal)
A jar lifter, funnel, and other canning tools
Tested recipes from trusted sources
Water Bath Canning: Best for high-acid foods like fruits, jams, and pickles.
Pressure Canning: Essential for low-acid foods like vegetables, meats, and soups.
Follow your recipe carefully, whether you’re slicing peaches for syrup or packing carrots into jars.
Heat your jars for the recommended time and temperature, then let them cool on a towel-lined countertop. You’ll know you’ve done it right when you hear the satisfying “ping” of sealing lids.
Why should you invest time and effort into canning? Here are just a few reasons:
Control Your Ingredients: Say goodbye to preservatives, “natural flavors,” and questionable additives.
Save Money: Stocking up on produce in-season (or growing your own) is cheaper than buying pre-packaged goods.
Reduce Waste: No more tossing out spoiled veggies—just can them!
Self-Sufficiency: Build a pantry that doesn’t rely on the whims of grocery store shelves.
Nostalgia and Joy: There’s something deeply satisfying about hearing that “ping” and seeing rows of beautiful jars on your shelf.
Canning might seem intimidating at first, but once you understand the science behind it, you’ll see it’s both safe and rewarding. Whether you’re jamming summer berries, pickling garden cucumbers, or pressure-canning your first batch of chicken soup, you’re participating in a time-honored tradition of self-reliance.
So roll up your sleeves, grab your jars, and start building a pantry you can be proud of. With every lid you seal, you’re preserving more than just food—you’re preserving a way of life.
What’s the first thing you’re going to can this Canuary? Let me know in the comments, and don’t forget to share your success stories (and mishaps—we’ve all been there)!
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